Cape Town

The vast majority of our South African adventure was spent in Cape Town. We had a whirlwind two weeks jam packed with family activities, so forgive me if this post is a little long.

First on the agenda was our stay with Ouma and Oupa, who, lucky for us, happen to live very near to lots of different wine farms. Score!

We got to see a few while we were there, but my favorite one was this beautiful place where you could have a picnic lunch while sipping their wine. They packed the adult boxes with tasty little jars of meat and cheese spreads, containers of salads, and lovely, crusty loaf of olive bread. They also packed two different desserts in there. Basically it was heaven in a box with wine.

The other cool thing about this place was that it was very kid friendly. They had a playground and a water fountain that kids could swim in, which sort of over-flowed all the way down to a splash-pad. While we lunched, Esmé played her little heart out until she was hungry…

and then they set up a special little picnic spot just for her to eat her lunch! I mean this place seriously was the best. It is so nice to find places that are kid-friendly when you travel, so this was a definite win.

After our stay with Ouma and Oupa we got to see Emile’s brother get married! It was such a beautiful wedding. Table Mountain was the backdrop, and the lush, green garden was the perfect frame for one of the prettiest wedding parties I have ever seen. Seriously all of the guests were so stylish, I felt a little out of place there with my backpack on running around after my toddler.

Said toddler was the only child present at this wedding and she made quite sure that everyone knew she was there. She started out looking pretty and pressed with her new shoes on, but ended the day barefoot, covered in dirt from head-to-toe, with lipstick on her dress from being kissed by others so much. She ran. She jumped. She ate. She laughed. She drank (milk). She threw dirt in the fountain and almost ruined the filter system. She danced. Then we went home and she crashed. It was a very, very good day.

We were so lucky to have such clear days while we were in town for the wedding, because we had spectacular views of the mountains.We spent some time walking around the waterfront, checking out the shops, and also took her for a trip to the aquarium.

The coolest part was their clown fish exhibit. They had this entrance where you duck under to get to this cylindrical viewing area inside the tank. Esmé loved it. There were so many clown fish! She had just watched ‘Finding Dory’ on the flight over, so she was all about the Dory and Marlin fishes.

We also got to see Santa while we were there!! I was very curious to see if she would like him in person. She loves him in movies, books, and stories, so you’d think she would. Last year when we took her, she screamed bloody murder. Turns out we are still wary of the in-the-flesh Santa. The closer he got to the glass, the farther away she ran. Sorry Santa, maybe next year.

After that, we were down to our last week with family. There was lots of wining and dining, golfing for Papa, swimming at the hotel pool, but I think Esmé’s favorite was a hike we did through the forest in Knysna.

This was actually a 3 kilometer trail that she ended up walking, almost entirely, by herself. I literally only had to carry her for maybe 10 minutes total.

The rest of the 1.5 hour walk she did all by herself. Everyone, myself included, was super impressed with our little adventurer.

We did so much in our three weeks in South Africa: from safaris, to hiking through a beautiful green jungle, to walks by the coast.

After all was said and done, my favorite moments were actually ones where we weren’t doing much of anything at all. They were the times spent sitting outside on Ouma and Oupa’s porch, watching Esmé run and laugh and play in the garden.

Or watching my little love decorate the Christmas tree with her Uncles. Don’t get me wrong, I love new adventures and want to see as much of the world as I can. But the quiet moments where no one was worried about running around, or where we were off to next, and everyone was just hanging out? Those were the ones that made my heart happy.

On Safari

When I first met my husband many, many years ago, and he told me he was from South Africa, I had all sorts of curious questions for him. One of them was “Do you have like zebras, or giraffes that come through your back yard?” In my hometown of Tucson, AZ we saw javelinas, rattlesnakes, scorpions, bobcats, coyotes, etc. in our backyard, or sometimes even the front yard all the time. So when he said he lived in South Africa, it seemed a reasonable assumption on my part that this…

might show up in his backyard. He gave me a look, that he often does, indicating his uncertainty of my sanity, and said ‘no we do not.’

After living in the States for a couple of years, where we had all sorts of wildlife in our own backyard here in NC, he has determined that my question was not as stupid/ insane as he once believed.

This past December we were in South Africa for three weeks, visiting family. While we were there, we decided to do a safari through Kruger National Park. The park is exactly what my younger, more naive self envisioned. It’s an enormous game reserve where wild animals are literally right outside your car window.

Our first day there was chilly, which was quite a rare thing for being the middle of summer. Cooler, cloudy weather meant two things. One- more animals out in the daytime; and two- longer, more frequent car naps from Esmé. It actually made for quite a pleasant car ride.

As soon as we got into the park she was out like a light. Literally, a herd of water buffalo tromped past our car and she didn’t even flinch. She was out cold.

Emile was most excited about seeing a pack of wild dogs. Apparently they are very rare, and we saw the whole pack (if you look closely you can see some of them hiding in the trees in the picture above), which was very cool.

I was most excited to see the elephants. So much so that when one appeared outside my window I actually shrieked from surprise because it snuck up on me. I shouted for Emile to stop and we skidded to a stop, nearly scaring him away. He carried on walking to a mud/water hole, where we were able to get an amazing view of him drinking water. We were soooo close! It was crazy, and a little unnerving because the last time we went to Kruger we were charged by an elephant. As it was, there was another car that got a little too close to him. The elephant started shaking his head at them, so we hurried up and got out of there.

Also of note…twinning with the zebras! And I didn’t even plan it! Emile said I was being ridiculous, but I made him take my picture anyway.

The best part of our first day in Kruger was seeing lion cubs! There were at least four of them that we could see up on this ridge near the road. The mama lions were a little farther down the river bed, but still visible (not in any pictures we took unfortunately). It was such a treat to be able to see these guys in person.

Our second day in Kruger turned out to be a family day for the animals. It started with this family of four impalas. It was so cute because the mom was leading the way and the dad was nudging them along to cross the road from behind.

Then we saw a family of giraffes. This guy actually stood for quite some time right in the middle of the road, before moving to the other side, so that we could get by.

My favorite family viewing was, of course, the elephants. I mean, look at that little guy!! Baby animals are just the best. Esmé was actually awake for most of the day this time around and the elephants ended up being her favorite as well. She kept holding up her Charlotte Bear and saying “Look Shah-lot (Charlotte)! Look! There’s al-a-fants back dere!” After each animal we would see, we would ask her which one she wanted to find next. She always said, “Al-a-fants (elephants)!” It was so fun to see her enjoy them as much as I do.

We also got to follow these guys around for awhile. They started out a little ways off, on the right side of our car but then jogged away. When we turned right on the next road, it turned out that they were going the same way we were! Emile was hoping that they were in pursuit of food, but after awhile they plopped their butts down just to hang out on the side of the road. I thought they were pretty cute little hyenas.

When you go on safari, you aim to try and find what they call the “big five,” which are the lion, a buffalo, an elephant, a leopard, and rhinoceros. We were happy that we’d seen three of the five, but really wanted to find a rhinoceros. Seeing them has actually become harder due to heavy poaching. They are extremely shy of people, and try to avoid the roads.  We actually got to a point in our last day where we decided to head back to Johannesburg, because it was getting late.

As we were leaving the park, my husband was looking around and said “This looks like good rhino territory, I’m going to stop the car and do a scan.” So he put the car in park, got out his binoculars and literally started scanning the surrounding landscape. I was very skeptical because there were miles and miles and miles of land stretched out before us.

You know what? He found one…. A MILE AWAY. Can you believe it? You could barely see it with your naked eye. Honestly when I looked without the binoculars, it looked like a grey dot, no bigger than the tip of a ball-point pen, moving through a mass of green on the hillside. I was seriously so flabbergasted. That was like park ranger skills. Husband man stole my ‘eagle-eye’ title that day.