Traveling Truths: Paris

I’m going to tell you something. I get serious travel envy. It often happens as soon as we get back from a trip, or worse yet, while we are actually on vacation. It really doesn’t take much. I see someone else’s Instagram post about some beautiful far off place, and immediately I need to see it too. They make it look so perfect, and fun, and fabulous! I think that’s actually part of the problem. We only share the best snippets of our journey.

I want to know the whole story. I want to know the mishaps, or crazy stories that got them there. Mostly I want to know we’re not the only ones stumbling through, trying to make it look like we know what we’re doing.

So in pursuit of honesty, I thought that I would share with you guys some of our traveling truths (failures) from our last trip. Because as much as I loved Paris, it was far from perfect.

Truth #1:

Esmé got very sick while we were there. She got Pink Eye, and some sort of cold virus as well. The first day she had it just in the left eye, and it wasn’t too bad, so we were going to wait it out and see what happened. We went to a pharmacy, got an antiseptic eyewash (that she hated), and waited to see what the next day looked like. The next morning she looked better, but, as the day wore on, the right eye started producing gunk, and her left eye got worse. By day three she looked TERRIBLE. The problem was by the time that we were able to speak to our pediatrician (thank you time delay), it was already too late in the day to get her in to see a doctor. On day four we were finally able to get her in to a doctor thanks to our wonderful hotel concierge. We got antibiotic eye drops, and she was 100% improved within a day.

How did this affect our trip? For starters, we had to have her wear her sunglasses everywhere. We didn’t want her spreading it to anyone, but we also didn’t want people thinking we were child abusers. Her eyes were red and swollen all the way down to her little cheeks. I literally had a pain in my chest having to look at her, because I knew she had to be so uncomfortable.

We also had to go back to the hotel at 4 hour intervals to give her drops. This was the hardest. It was a wrestling match every time to hold her down, and she screamed like she was dying. I’m sure we made our neighboring guests super happy.

Truth #2:

We brought one too many suitcases. I’m pretty sure this took two years off my husband’s life. Every other time that we have visited Europe we’ve either had a rental car, or have stayed with family who had a car. Basically, we’ve never had to walk all our stuff to and from the airport/hotel. So I packed just like we did for all the others…one suitcase for each of us. Huuuuuuuuge mistake.

The problem was that we had a toddler with us. One of us had to push the stroller with one hand while pulling along a suitcase and the other person pushed/pulled two suitcases; OR one person pushed all three while the other person pushed the stroller (I know this option seems ludicrous, but my husband actually attempted to push all three suitcases at once because it was such a mission doing the stroller and a suitcase).

There were heated discussions about a certain someone (me) not packing everything into two suitcases at least three different times during our trip. Lesson learned.

Also we stayed at two different places while we were there. It was so much fun moving all our stuff again.

Truth #3:

Versailles was almost a total disaster. I say almost, because we managed to keep it together while we were inside the palace. The best part about this truth is that I have a photo of the exact moment that it fell apart! This picture right here, when I was taking a picture of Emile taking a picture of Esmé frolicking in the gardens. She tripped and totally ate it immediately after our picture.

She had an epic meltdown afterward. It was so loud that other people who were there with their own crying children were giving us the stink eye. We didn’t know how sick she was yet because this was day 3 of her sickness. It was past nap time. Then she got a dent in her head from falling on her face with her sunglasses on. Rough day.

I had this vision of how our trip was going be, with lots of things to see and do, and all the pictures I wanted to take. Then life happened. We had to change plans almost daily, depending on how Esmé was feeling, but we made it work. Traveling with kids is never easy, but it is certainly one heck of an adventure.

Besides, in ten years time you’re not going to remember all the bad stuff that drove you crazy, (unless you’re my husband…then you will never ever let your wife forget the suitcase incident as long as either of you lives). It’s the good stuff, like kissing in front of the Eiffel Tower while it sparkles, that you take with you. That is what drives you to go out and do it all over again somewhere new.

An American Family In Paris

First of all, I know that this is long overdue. I have been putting off writing about Paris because I knew that as soon as I started going through all my pictures I would start getting homesick. Yes homesick. I can feel you rolling your eyes at me, but I’m telling you. It’s very much possible to have that achy, heart-longing feeling for a place that you do not actually live in. It’s a thing and it happened to me.

Second, we saw so much when we were there that I decided to divide it into two posts. This first one is all the touristy things that we got to see while we were there. First up, Notre-Dame Cathedral…

We actually visited Notre-Dame twice. The first time we were exploring the city with family, so we just walked around the grounds and admired the cathedral from the outside.

It was quite a rainy, gloomy day our first trip there, which made for a very moody experience. What with all the stone gargoyles glowering down at you and skeletal spires towering overhead.

Another cool thing we discovered was that in the back of the cathedral there was this beautiful little garden. (Esmé is pouting in the picture because there was a swing that was there, and there was also someone on said swing therefore preventing her from reaching full joy potential. Don’t worry though because about 5 minutes after we made her take a picture, the person got off, and she got to swing to her hearts content)

The second time we went we explored the interior, and the inside of the cathedral was just as impressive, if not more so, than the outside.

For me, churches are one of my favorite things to see when we travel. I think it’s because they are generally hundreds and hundreds of years old and there is so much history behind them.

It always makes me wonder about the kind of people who have come to worship, and what kind of lives they lived in whatever time they happened to be living them.

We got to see The Eiffel Tower!!! It is massive. It is breathtakingly beautiful. It is fabulously French. We went and saw it in the day time and were pretty flabbergasted until we saw it at night time…

Every night as soon as it’s dark, for five minutes, every hour, on the hour, the tower sparkles! We took a river cruise down the Seine and the boat was right next to the tower when it started sparkling. I can not even begin to explain how absolutely beautiful it was. Esmé loved it so much, she got upset any time it went out of sight on the way back. I’m pretty sure that it’s the closest I’ll come to seeing magic happen. It was spectacular.

Speaking of spectacular, we saw the spectacular spectacular! Well, we saw the outside. The reviews for this place were too mixed for me to actually pay to go and see the show, but it was so cool seeing the place that inspired one of my favorite movies.

The gardens in Paris are all so pristine! We actually figured out why while we were visiting the Luxembourg gardens. Do you see how there are chairs lining the lawn in the picture above? Well, those chairs are all around the gardens so that people don’t sit on the grass. They have these signs posted everywhere telling you to keep off of the lawns, and while we were there we actually saw security chase this woman out of the garden! He had a whistle and everything, so they take their garden maintenance very seriously.

When the grounds look this amazing though, I really don’t blame them. I honestly wish that I had taken more photos there because all the tree-lined promenades were so perfectly manicured you had to see it to believe it.

All throughout the garden there were these mini gardens, if you will. You would be walking along and all of a sudden it opened up into another perfect lawn with a sculpture of some sort in the middle, surrounded by beautiful flowers. There was literally perfection hiding in every nook and cranny of this place.

Esmé was happy because she got a chance to stretch her legs a bit and run around, as they had a huuuuge playground inside. Emile and I were happy because there was a little place just outside the playground, that sold the most amazing custard pastries. We all were happy because we ended the trip with a trip to Angelina’s for hot chocolate. It was basically like drinking a hot brownie batter. Heaven. The Luxembourg gardens were a smash hit for the whole family.

Versailles! I literally have to take a breath before I think about describing this place. Versailles is a gilded, very ornate, monster of a palace. It’s absolutely massive and is so over-the-top that it’s very easy to see why there was a revolution. You actually can’t get the whole of it in the picture frame unless you’re standing very, very, very, VERY far away.

You know what? I lied, because you see that building way up at the front there in this picture? That’s the palace. And not all of it is in the frame. Sorry guys. Though this was taken behind the palace in the gardens, so maybe it’s possible if you try from the front?

Here’s part of the back of the palace, and actually the middle floor of the central building is the hall of mirrors.

The inside of which looked like this. Pretty amazing, no? We got the audio guides and tried our hardest to listen to all the history about how magnificent this place was, and what went into making it.

However, Esmé thought it was a race to see who could get through the palace the fastest, so we really only caught snippets here and there. For instance we know that this was King Louis XIV’s chapel, but that’s all I got before I went running off to catch up to my little love.

You know what? That’s OK. Because as beautiful and amazing as the Palace was, the gardens were even better. They were so vast, that even though we must have walked 5 miles, we only saw a small bit of them. In the picture above, they literally stretch all the way to the horizon.

I could have happily spent a week here, wandering around exploring every square inch of the beautiful grounds. Esmé on the other hand could not.

I don’t know if it was the fact that she was sick, or the fact that we were doing this around her nap time, but she had a rough day.

Basically, this was not as big a hit for us as a family. My husband and I loved it, but if you have younger kids who still take a nap, this is a bit of a stretch for them. Totally worth it, mind you, but you will have a serious cranky-pants on your hands at the end of the day.

Last, but definitely not least…the Louvre! I really wish we had done a bit more research on this place because it’s massive. It is actually the world’s largest museum, and it’s impossible to see everything in one trip.

I think the reason why I didn’t bother to research the museum, was that I knew we were going to have our toddler with us, and I wasn’t expecting to see all that much. I know it’s super touristy, and probably reveals my lack of art history/ interest, but all I wanted to see was the Mona Lisa. Anything else that we were able to see would just be icing on top of the cake. So that’s where we headed first!

Everyone always talks about how disappointed they are because the painting is so small, and it’s too crowded, so I had low expectations. However I was pleasantly surprised when we made our way over to the exhibit. I mean, it’s definitely not the biggest painting there is, but I still felt like it was such a treat to see. It also wasn’t as crowded as I thought it would be. It was definitely the busiest exhibit we saw while we were there, but it was no where near the horror stories I’d read about online. So so happy that we got to see her!

We actually were able to see a lot more than I had anticipated. We saw Napolean III apartments (above), Venus de Milo, the Victory of Samothrace, The Coronation of Napoléon (an enormous canvas!), the French Crown Jewels (serious drooling), and we even got to see the original foundations of the Louvre itself in the Medieval section. Our trip to the Louvre ended up being the perfect way to wrap up our trip to Paris.

Something we learned by accident, because we had a late nap, is that it’s actually a lot better to go at night time, than first thing in the morning (This was also the case for Versailles, because we went early afternoon, around 2, and there was no line). We didn’t have to wait at all to buy tickets, and the line for security had maybe five people in front of us? I think we got there around 6 pm, and it was perfect. That may have also been why it wasn’t so crowded in the Mona Lisa room. Also they allow you to take your stroller inside (something we could not do at the Palace of Versailles)! It’s a bit of a mission going up and down lots of stairs if you’re not close to an elevator, but it was such a help for us.

Did we have a favorite after seeing and doing all these things? Hands down, all three of us loved the river cruise at night past the Eiffel Tower. It was kid friendly, so I was more relaxed because I didn’t have to worry about keeping her under control. They also had mini bottles of wine to purchase, so we sat, cuddled together (because it was freezing), and drank our wine as Paris floated by. It was magic.